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Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Thanks to Delray's posts and confirmation I no longer have to worry about the "Eco Auto/Start & Stop" (feature) anymore! That Auxiliary Battery does nothing more than what Delray said it does... It only controls the Auto Start/Stop "Eco Feature"... Best yet, it's totally reversible if I needed to put it back in action before taking it back for service with only a quick clip of a zip tie, unwrap the electrical tape, and plugging back in the negative lead...

I'm glad I started this thread today! >>>
On my way home I got most of the way home from my 23 mile commute without "Eco Mode" activating. Of course, when I needed to take a left on a green light with oncoming traffic the S.O.B. '"Eco Mode"" Auto Start/Stopped at the most inopportune time. I was a little rattled and it made me start this thread. Now it's fixed for as long as I want it to be... Win-Win!

E.T.A.... ****, I love this RR.Net Forum! :love:
 
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I went in the back and there was no small battery pack on my 2016 RRS ATB . I will check the fuse list in the manual
Nothing to pull on the 2016 on up. As far as I know the only “fix” is to do an ECU tune and have them program it out.

I’ve just ordered one for my 2016 TD6 from VelocityAP. Will post how it goes once I receive the programmer and get it modified.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I went in the back and there was no small battery pack on my 2016 RRS ATB . I will check the fuse list in the manual
Yeah, I was wondering how that lame azz "Eco Auto/Start/Stop" system was in application on latter Range Rover Sport Supers... Delray helped take care of my problem with that Auxiliary Battery negative lead disconnect, electrical tape up doubled, then zip tied away... With all the "Tuner's" in service and coming on line I know an "Eco" Delete option will be "Another" selling point option equal to or better than the top speed limiter (limited to 122MPH) delete selling point was on my "SCT-Tuner" for on my recently traded-in 15' Explorer Sport TTC... I hope we can all get a resolution for you 16' and latter Range Rover Sport Super owners like the earlier models of this beautifully designed baby deserves...
 
Interesting development yesterday. I wanted to rerun some wiring to my cubby box, so I tore into the center console. After disconnecting the switchpack that contains the start/stop button, I needed to drive the car.

While the info display threw suspension and traction control errors, it didn’t throw anything related to stop/start and it didn’t stop the engine at any stoplights. This tells me that someone could remove one of the two wires leading to the auto start/stop switch in the switch pack and it will likely disable it. I tried to remove the pin from the connector, but was unable to remove it and didn’t want to cut the wire.

So that’s one potential option. The other option...

That got me thinking that it’s clearly not a programatic feature because:
1. the tuners don’t turn off auto start/stop, they make the car think it’s not idling; and
2. If you disconnect the button, it stops auto/start.

So if it’s not programmatic, what about replacing the switch pack? Sure enough, Land Rover sells the packs without the start/stop button and the price is not that high - $270-$350. Far cheaper than tuning the car and having it programmatically tricked into thinking it’s not idling (if this is all you are after).

Land Rover makes the following switch packs without auto stop-go for 2016:
  • With 2 speed transfer box, without auto stop-go - LR067054
  • with 1 speed transfer box, without auto stop-go - LR080239

If anyone tries either of these two methods, please post back what you find.
 
It's quite simple to permanently disable. One of the first things I did . Get your black electrical tape and a zip tie.

Simply remove the right rear interior trim panel in the luggage area, where the fuse panel is located. You just have to reach under and grab the handle and give it a good tug.
Inside you will see a small battery. Simply disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Once the lead is removed. tape it up with electrical tape so there is no chance of an electrical short and tie it so it won't move around. I just used zip ties.

replace the trim cover and enjoy.

No fault codes, no displayed error messages and most importantly NO MORE Intelligent Stop Start
View attachment 282576
 
I live in Miami. I’d like to say ‘nuff said, but for those who don’t go to the beach in December... It’s hot here. THis is an annoying feature as it kills the A/C which we run 24/7 about 320 days a year. That said, I love the feature, but would like the option to disable it permanently and enable it in the winter months or when outside of FL. I have a 2018 Velar. This fix wont work there to the best of my knowledge. Anyone have an idea how to disable it on a Velar?
 
I live in Miami. I’d like to say ‘nuff said, but for those who don’t go to the beach in December... It’s hot here. THis is an annoying feature as it kills the A/C which we run 24/7 about 320 days a year. That said, I love the feature, but would like the option to disable it permanently and enable it in the winter months or when outside of FL. I have a 2018 Velar. This fix wont work there to the best of my knowledge. Anyone have an idea how to disable it on a Velar?
Give my suggestions above a try.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
So is there no coding option via obd II port? Sorry new here if this seems like a dumb question. Every other car I have had there has always been coding available.
I don't think so Screwly... I think Rover wanted this feature to stay in tact if possible to help out with their fuel mileage boost claims... So you are pretty much dedicated to it coding wise unless you eliminate it via a hardware or in a hard-wire deleting way! I wish I could tell you differently. Maybe, maybe one of the "Tuner" Companies can figure a way to out-write a coding solution for you as an added benefit perk when you buy their Tune...
 
I don't think so Screwly... I think Rover wanted this feature to stay in tact if possible to help out with their fuel mileage boost claims... So you are pretty much dedicated to it coding wise unless you eliminate it via a hardware or in a hard-wire deleting way! I wish I could tell you differently. Maybe, maybe one of the "Tuner" Companies can figure a way to out-write a coding solution for you as an added benefit perk when you buy their Tune...
My Velocity AP tune has it removed.
 
I did not originally post this solution, found it here however. I never idle my car while waiting for things outside of stop lights. I also work from home - so I don't drive often, and prefer a bicycle when the weather permits. This feature is just disconcerting and even dangerous at times IMO. This auxiliary battery actually died before I purchased my car. I was the second owner. The dealership replaced it and confirmed for me the battery does nothing else except the auto stop-start, or it's called eco mode in later vehicles. Your needs or apprehension about the system may vary. Good luck!
Thanks for posting a permanent solution to this annoying option.
 
I didn't see anyone mention this here, but in my '16 TD6 I am able to keep the engine running by lightly pushing the brake pedal, just enough to keep me stationary, the engine only shuts off if I push the pedal down further. I like this because if I'm expecting to be at a light for a while, like at a train crossing, I don't mind the engine shutting off.
 
I didn't see anyone mention this here, but in my '16 TD6 I am able to keep the engine running by lightly pushing the brake pedal, just enough to keep me stationary, the engine only shuts off if I push the pedal down further. I like this because if I'm expecting to be at a light for a while, like at a train crossing, I don't mind the engine shutting off.
I came here to mention this. It used to slightly annoy me (but the fuel savings aren't negligible), and I've also come to learn that I can basically make it work only when I want to by applying the right amount of braking force. Problem solved. Also - if you're stationary for a while (like at a train crossing, or drive thru, etc), and the system doesn't engage, you can force it to engage by putting the car in Park.
 
I came here to mention this. It used to slightly annoy me (but the fuel savings aren't negligible), and I've also come to learn that I can basically make it work only when I want to by applying the right amount of braking force. Problem solved. Also - if you're stationary for a while (like at a train crossing, or drive thru, etc), and the system doesn't engage, you can force it to engage by putting the car in Park.
Exactly, the fuel savings are worth it for long lights, railroad crossings, etc. I haven't had my L494 very long, but I imagine this will become 2nd nature/intuitive soon enough.
 
For future reference, I can confirm that the auxiliary battery being disabled works like a charm. Mine went completely dead, and I had no auto start/stop. Replaced the battery, and it worked again. The reason for the auxiliary battery, is that it is a "keep alive" battery to run all of the functions in the car like the gauges, climate control, lamps, etc, temporarily until the engine restarts. When the engine restarts, there is a big voltage drop due to the starter engaging. The auxiliary battery is necessary during that voltage drop(it is not tied in with the starter) to keep everything at 12volts or more during cranking so that none of the computer modules have to reboot.

That being said, I think anything you can do to create a fault in the system will disable. Meaning that, check engine lights can disable it, possibly unplugging the deactivation switch would disable. On other makes, I have seen where someone made a simple device to make the car think the hood was open, yet there was no hood ajar light, but it disabled auto stop.
 
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