Worried about maintaining your new or used Range Rover? See the Range Rover Extended Warranty Information Page

Worried about financing it? See the Range Rover Financing Page

Introduction

If you can afford a new Range Rover -- buy one! (See buying information at this link). Fortunately, if you cannot, Range Rovers have been officially imported into the US since 1987, so used ones have become very affordable. This page provides some basic information for prospective buyers. (Check here for my own ownership experiences, and here for other owners' views).

Overall Considerations: Is a Range Rover for You?

The Range Rover is the world's best 4X4; if you're looking for the world's best handling sports car or shopping mall conveyance, or the lowest maintenance and repair costs, look elsewhere. To find out whether you really want one, check out the SUV Comparison Page on this web site.

Studying consumer publications for details of reliability records and the like is not much help for Range Rover buyers, since there are insufficient numbers sold to register on the Richter scale in that type of publication. When data is available, Rovers usually rank low when it comes to the number of faults reported by owners, but very high in owner satisfaction. The basic frame, body, and drive train are very reliable and long lasting. (Take a look underneath a Range Rover and compare its solid engineering with the flimsy undersides of other sport utilities that are "off-road" vehicles in name only). However, when it comes to the small, annoying things that can go wrong, the Range Rover (like other Land Rover products) cannot compete with the reliability record of cars like Hondas and Toyotas. A Range Rover is well worth buying if you want to know you have the world's best four wheel drive capabilities. Other buyers may be happier with a lesser but more maintenance free vehicle.

If you buy one that is out of warranty, allow a realistic (i.e. large) annual budget for scheduled maintenance and the usually minor but often expensive things that have a habit of needing to be fixed. (For an excellent perspective on the right philosophy for living with a Range Rover, see this link). Or, consider paying a known amount up front for your repairs by getting an extended warranty.

What Model Year?

In selecting a model year, it is useful to know when the main mechanical changes occurred; a thumbnail sketch is given below. For all the details, including illustrations of the different models and their distinguishing features, see the Detailed Model Year Specs/FAQ. Individual model years below are linked to those pages for more information.

Range Rover Classic
1987:     Range Rover introduced to North America.
1988:     No major changes
1989:     Larger 3.9 liter engine and new chain driven, automatic viscous locking transfer case.
1990:     Special  4 channel ABS added, designed for off road use.
1991:     Great Divide Expedition model (a white 1990 with special bumper and trim) sold alongside County (swaybars added for first time) and cloth seat Hunter (no swaybars, spoiler, or sunroof)
1992:     Swaybars on County model, absent on regular model.
1993:     Long wheelbase (LWB) model introduced with 4.2 liter engine, air suspension, rear traction control, stronger 24 spline axles.
1994:     Air suspension added to short wheelbase 3.9 liter model. Sometime early in 94, the LWB gets redesigned dash and airbags and is sold as a 95 model for most of 94.
1995:     LWB discontinued. New dash design added to short wheelbase model, sold alongside new model for 1995 as the "Classic".
1996:     Production of Classic ends in February.

Range Rover 4.0 SE, 4.6 HSE / P38
1994:     The all-new 4.0/4.6 model introduced in September in the UK.
1995:     New 4.0 SE model goes on sale in USA.
1996:     4.6 HSE introduced to US with larger engine, 18 inch wheels and 255/55R18 tires.
1997:     Shock valving recalibrated to softer setting (mid year).
1998:     300 watt, 12 speaker stereo replaces earlier 11 speaker setup. A limited edition 50th Anniversary 4.0SE model has18 inch wheels with a special color and trim details.
1999:     Engines receive new intake manifold and Bosch engine controls for more low and midrange torque. Electronic Traction Control extended to all four wheels; larger subwoofer installed. Callaway 4.6 HSE limited edition appears with 240 hp engine and body color bumpers. The engine has a modified Lucas EFI system instead of the Bosch system on regular models.
2000:     Addition of air injection reactor (smog pump) on the engine, further complicating repair work. "Round effect headlights" introduced. Several new model designations, each with minor cosmetic trim variations.
2001:     4.6 model only, in SE and HSE trim. HSE recognizable externally by rub strip with chrome insert, and standard 18 inch wheels. Interior HSE trim differences: GPS system standard, 460 watt stereo, extra wood trim, optional lightstone leather, optional wood and leather steering wheel.
2002:    Few Range Rovers sold during first 6 months as customers wait for new model

Standard Equipment versus Options
Many private sellers and car dealers advertising used Range Rovers list all the luxury features as if they were options (as they are on other makes); in fact with one or two exceptions they are all standard on US models, so don't pay extra for them.

The Usual Precautions
When buying a used Range Rover, many of the same considerations apply as when purchasing any other used vehicle. The overriding priority is to make sure the vehicle has had its scheduled maintenance performed; the owner's manual should be stamped to prove this. Do all the usual checks such as those suggested by Edmunds Price Guide. Look underneath to see if there are any leaks; if there are not, all fluids must be empty!! (Just kidding).

Things to Check on a Classic
On Classic models, the most notorious leaker is the steering box; if you don't like topping it up periodically the replacement is expensive. Other good leakers are the swivel pin housings on the front wheels (the chromed spherical things on the inside of each front wheel) and the rear axle. While you're under there, have a look for any signs of rust. There shouldn't be any on West Coast vehicles; there may be some on vehicles from other areas. See if the fuel tank recall work has been done -- the original tank on 87-91 models was said to be prone to rusting between the tank and skid plate. A slightly sagging right rear corner is normal due to uneven stock spring lengths (designed to balance out when the driver is seated). More minor checks that can pay off are the operation of such items as the sunroof, the heating and air conditioning systems, and the electric door locks and seat adjustment switches. Check for rust -- the tailgate is a notorious ruster, and it's also a good idea to pull up a bit of interior carpet to see if the floor is rusted. Other Range Rover weak points are listed on the Range Rover Remedies page. 

Things to Check on a 4.0/4.6
The 4.0/4.6 models are just as subject to leaks as the Classic models. Coolant leaks are not uncommon, including thermostat housing, hose leaks. Head gasket leaks seem to be especially common on the later model years. Popular oil leak points include the crankcase pan and the pinion seals. There were several recall campaigns on the earlier models, including one to address coolant leak problems; make sure the work was done. See if the Message Center indicates any faults when you turn on the ignition; this gives a good indication as to whether all the electrical and electronic features are operating. Make sure all the electric door locks work. Check the function of the air suspension (see above) and climate control. For the latter, just punch the "Auto" button and set the desired temperature, making sure the system heats or cools properly. Check out the items mentioned in Range Rover 4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes.

Things to check on a Range Rover III
Like any new design, the Range Rover III had a number of teething problems, some of which persisted through to the later years. It is worth checking the air suspension operation and the navigation and entertainment systems, especially on pre 2005 models. If you are getting the vehicle checked out by a dealer, it might be worth paying them to check the front differential splines for wear to prevent possible failure. Things to check while driving are listed in the test drive section below. Reading the Range Rover III Common Symptoms and Fixes page will give you a good idea of the most common problems.

Things to check on a Range Rover Sport
The RR Sport is basiccally a replica of the Discovery 3 / LR3 with a chopped down body, and was introduced after ther was time to get rid of the initial teething problems. relatively fewer common problems exist on this model, but it is well to check the air suspension operation.

Range Rover Classic:
Don't be alarmed if there seems to be excessive body roll when you go for a test drive in a Range Rover Classic; this is normal and is a result of the superb off-road suspension. As soon as you leave the pavement you will feel like you are falling into a soft silk pillow, with the Range Rover magic carpet transporting you effortlessly over terrain that has lesser 4x4's reduced to a crawl, while their owners think about chiropractic bills. Check the operation of the transfer case in low range. (Stop and shift the transmission into neutral. Move the transfer case lever from H to L. All transmission shifts should be smooth, except for a normally fairly hard shift from first to second on Classics. Some gear noise is normal, especially on 87 and 88 models with the gear driven transfer case. Around 40 mph on 1987 models, or 52 mph on 1988 and later Classics, you should feel the torque converter lock up -- this feels like another gear change but is not.

Air Suspension Models (93-95 County LWB, 94-95 County, 95 onwards 4.0/4.6):
To test the air suspension, you need to know that it will only respond to commands if the engine is running, all doors and the tailgate are closed, and your foot is off the brake. In Park, you should be able to raise and lower it over the full range from "access" to "high" settings. In motion, if the "inhibit" switch (to the right of the height control switch) is off, the suspension should stay in standard profile until you exceed 50 mph for about 30 seconds, then it should lower itself to "low" profile. When you slow down below 35 for about 30 seconds it should revert to "standard". Below 35 mph you should also be able to select "high" profile.

Range Rover 4.0/4.6:
The 4.0/4.6 should feel tight and car-like to drive, with reduced body roll, and virtually none of the clonking, slop and gear noise associated with earlier models. Steering should be precise and the car should track straight. Transmission shifts should be very smooth. Engaging "sport" mode by pressing the button next to the shifter should make the tranny stay in its lower ranges longer and shift down more readily. The torque converter lockup is electronically controlled and can tend to hunt to and fro a bit on hills, giving the impression of frequent gear changing. To test the transfer case, stop, select neutral, move the shifter across to the low range neutral position, wait 'til the beeps and flashing lights stop, then select the desired gear ratio. To test the climate control, just punch the big "auto" button and set the desired temperature.

Mk III Range Rover (2003 Model Year & up):
On this model the new drivetrain and independent suspension should make the test drive feel like driving a (heavy) car, with everything smooth and quiet. There should be very little body roll (although more than in a car). Listen and feel for vibrations in the steering or drivetrain -- these seem to be the most common defects (see common problems and fixes) and are hard to get rid of. Make sure the steering column adjustment goes up and down without sticking, and that the radio and navigation systems operate normally without any static or other quirks. Test the air suspension to make sure it goes up and down normally.

Range Rover Sport (2006/2006 & up):
Not much to worry about on this vehicle except making sure everything works! Test the air suspension, but most other systems have not been subject to many problems. . 

Most buyers will want to get some idea of prices for the new and used models before making a decision on what to buy. In North America, Edmunds Land Rover Price Guide is a good place to start, giving you an idea of new prices as well as used. Dealers have told me that Edmunds used prices are far more realistic than the Kelly Blue Book. They also have research, road tests etc to browse. The other site I have found most useful for price information, and one of the few that divulges dealer invoice pricing on Range Rovers, is Cars.com. In all cases, bear in mind that the "optional extras" listed by these sources in their used price guides are in most cases standard equipment on US spec Range Rovers so use of these price adjustments for them be misleading. Also note that used prices are higher on the West Coast of the US where vehicles have not been subject to extreme temperatures, humidity and salted roads. More sources of pricing information and free quotes are listed below in the buying help section.

Dealer Shopping:
For new vehicles the usual procedure is to shop the dealer and spend half a day to a day of your time bargaining with sales people whose job it is to extract the maximum $$ from you. If you enjoy the adversarial haggling experience, go for it -- it is part of the American tradition! Remember that these folks are playing this game all day every day, and you do it once a year at best -- so the odds are stacked against you, no matter how well informed you feel you are.

Hiring a Buyer's Broker:
An alternative being used by more and more buyers in both the US and the UK is to hire a buyer's broker -- for a surprisingly small fee (usually $200-$400) they will do the shopping for you, finding the exact vehicle and options you specify, with full factory warranty. Due to their purchase volume and knowledge of the dealer "back door" they will get you a much lower price than you can possibly get yourself. They will also deliver the car to your door, where the paperwork is usually 10 minutes or less. This process is not meant for those who enjoy a good fight with their local dealershp sales staff, but if you are tired of that game and want to save both time and money, you might want to give it a try. More details appear on our Buyer's Broker page.

Buying Used

If you are in the market for a used Range Rover, you can try the several online used listing services including the popular Rangerovers.net used listings, or  www.ebay.com,  lrx, craigslist, and the ads in your local newspaper. Or, you can shop the dealer's used stock, knowing you will be paying a $5-10,000 premium over private party prices but will have someone to go back to if there is a problem.

If your search is confined to late model Range Rovers (say 2003 and up), a third alternative is to hire a buyer's broker to find the best deal for you. For example, try Carsmith for a quote -- they cover the whole Western US, and you are likely to be surprised at the savings they can get you. They use their huge buying power to shop a nationwide database of used Rovers, and also attend the regular "dealers only" wholesale auctions. Uniquely, they make this dealer auction Rover inventory directly available to Rangerovers.net readers. They will even give you an extra discount if you tell them you came from Rangerovers.net!

Financing Information

Even used Range Rovers are fairly expensive, and I always hate walking into a dealer or a private deal knowing I will have to be at their mercy for arranging financing. I have researched various different extremely low interest financing options that make the cost of ownership more affordable, while allowing you to walk in with a blank check. This greatly improves your bargaining power! Or, these options can be used to refinance your existing auto loan at a much lower rate, or buy out your lease. For more information please see the Range Rover Financing Page.

Extended Warranties

Due to the considerable expense of proper maintenance and repairs for Range Rovers, extended warranties can be an attractive deal, but because of this reputation many of the usual providers will not cover Range Rovers. Some other providers have specialized in providing affordable coverage for these vehicles however; click here to find out more about the pros and cons of aftermarket warranties for Range Rovers, from new to 20 years old.

Auto Insurance for Range Rovers

Worried about the cost of insurance for your new Range Rover? Our Range Rover Insurance page has easy links to help you get auto insurance quotes that should save you money.

eBay Motors eBay UK Listings

Cars.com: Buy, Sell & Research New & Used Range Rovers. Price Quotes. Only site I have seen that divulges Dealer Invoice Pricing for Range Rovers. Good selection of used RRs.

Custom Range Rovers (uprated power, interior and exterior)
DealerDirectUSA.com Free new car quote service that matches you with the best price from with a dealership in your area.

Edmunds.com Direct link to New Range Rover Page
Edmunds.com Used Range Rover Price Guide Page

. Land Rover dealer insiders say Edmunds prices are the most realistic -- Kelly Blue Book and NADA are way too high.

LeaseTrader.com Save by taking over someone else's Range Rover lease

Links to Other Information

Detailed Model Year Specs/FAQ with Illustations
Technical Specifications
Custom Range Rovers
One Owner's Experiences
Ownership Experiences of Others
Power Upgrades from Rechipping
Range Rover Lifestyle Accessories
Range Rover Service
Rovers North page on choosing a used Range Rover, by Mick Patten