BeCM surgery and repair

[skippy3k]

Since the day I bought my 95 RR 4.0, I've gotten Fuse Errors on fuses 2, 13, and 20 each time I turn on or off the Rover. The fuses checked out fine, as did all the different functions they controlled with the exception of the heated seats, which, when activated, always resulted in an additional "Fuse 2 Error" on the display. So I never gave it much concern, until the truth came out from my wife that she didn't "trust" riding in the Rover because of those errors! Well, I was shocked, and decided to make it my highest priority.

I dismantled engine compartment fusebox, and although it will need to be replaced at some point, I did not think it was the problem. I checked all the ground cables, fine. All circuits and wiring worked fine. All fuses under the passenger seat checked out OK. I spent many hours pouring over the ETM, trying this and trying that. Until I came to the conclusion that the problem must be within the dreaded BeCM.

After reading John's excellent page on "Demystifying the BeCM" and Andy's BeCM article, I decided to suit up for surgery. To add a little to John's write-up, the Torx wrench sizes he mentions are size 50 for removing the seat, and a tiny size 10 for removing the BeCM cover screws. Once the cover was off, I could immediately see where someone had spilled some coffee or something on one of the connectors and somehow it leaked onto the top power board, causing damage. (I would love to meet the brainiac Land Rover engineer who came up with the idea of putting the BeCM directly below the passenger seat and the lousy cupholders.)

I gave the board to my father-in-law, who owns a scale repair business. He agreed with John's analysis that most of the components on the top power board are fairly basic. After testing it, he found 7 "open traces" (?) and a bad relay. (I might have the terminology wrong here, someone please correct me if I do. Basically, 7 different circuits on the board weren't working correctly.)

He fixed the bad circuits with seven tiny little wires and a new relay, I put the BeCM back in the Rover, and wouldn't you know it....everything worked. I couldn't believe it. Even my heated seats. No more fuse errors.

What does this mean? I don't think it means that everyone can tear into their BeCM at the first sign of trouble. But I do think it shows that the BeCM can be repaired, if you are willing to take a chance and if it's in the hands of someone who is familiar with electronics. Although my problems weren't show stoppers, it did save me about $1000 or so for a replacement unit. My thanks to John and Andy for giving me the courage to do something so rash and foolish.

[Jim-00-4.6]

Skippy:
That's some excellent news!! (your terminology was fine)

I also read John's article about the BeCM, and was encouraged to find that it isn't quite as scary in there as I had initially thought. And a little dissappointed that it wasn't more "hi-tech"; which is stupid, because then none of us could do anything in there!!

It sounds like lots of analog circuits, at least at the power end of things, so that means adding and changing is still reasonable for the DIYers like us.

This makes me wonder if the other ECUs are similar...

jim

[ranger4]

THanks guys this is great additional info -- i have now added the torx sizes etc to the page.

Keep up the great work!

Cheers

John

[Ufodike]

John has indeed been very helpful in a lot of tips from his site. I've found them handy from when I got my '91 Classic in 2001. I solved my power seat control switch problem with just a can of carburator cleaner. Ingenious! Several other problems were solved almost cost free from his contributions.

I added a '96 4.0 SE to my 'fleet' in 2004. I've not been able to drive the vehicle for 3 months now, bcos the security locked me out. I've tried inputting the code without luck. I've installed a brand new door latch from AtlanticBritish, yet the vehicle doesn't seem to be recieving the code (the side lamps don't flash). I'm sure I'm doing all thing right.

Suddenly, a techie from the dealership here tells me I have to get a new BeCM! This is where my headache begins.

I'm happy to hear I can toy around with the BeCM. Afterall, what have I got to loose?

John's detailed writeup on it makes it so easy to follow and understand. I'm not so much of an electrical/electronics person, but I'll give it a try.

I wish I had a father-in-law just like skippy3k

I really have to get this BeCM fixed, and save myself the huge cost of a replacement.

I love my 4.0 and would love to have it back on the road!

Help me somebody!!!

[skippy3k]

I was going offer the option of sending me the BeCM, and I'll see what I could do to repair it. But I think your issue might be related to the logic part of the boards, which is an area my father-in-law and myself have not gotten into. Even if you replace it with another BeCM, you'll have to get it programmed for security.

One day I might pull a Shupack and master the previously un-masterable.

Scott

[shupack]

...One day I might pull a Shupack and master the previously un-masterable.

Scott

Now I'm a verb??? That's awesome!

[p38arover]

. After testing it, he found 7 "open traces" (?) and a bad relay. (I might have the terminology wrong here, someone please correct me if I do. Basically, 7 different circuits on the board weren't working correctly.)

The terminology is correct. The traces are the tracks on the board. "Open" means "open circuit" i.e., the circuit is broken.

Ron (an electronics tech by trade)

[Ufodike]

Yehawww!

My 4.0 finally came back to life yesterday. I just mounted the reset BECM, and fired the engine up, and yes! It answered. Am I relieved? Drove it around today, and felt very pround, and had that superiour roving spirit return to me.

I found a UK based company called Avilec at: http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk
took out the BECM from my truck, opened it out of curiosity (not that I knew what I was gonna do to the inside), and finally sent it to Avilec, and for £300, they unlocked it, reset the EKA etc, and sent it back to me.

From there, it was just plug and play.

Thanks you all for all the info. It's was quite helpful. At least it gave me the confidence of knowledge that the problem was surely from the BECM, and assured my guts of taking it out of the truck.

[skippy3k]

It's nice to know that company is back in operation. I heard a rumor awhile back that the guy who knew how to repair BeCMs there got sick or something, and was out for awhile.

Scott

[howard]

I was told he'd retired and no-one else there knew how to do them, when I was first searching. I found another company, BBA Reman who also do BECM repairs. They might be UK only, I am not sure but they are on the net. Mine turned out not to be the BECM, but the company were very helpful when I phoned.
Howard

[rangenam]

Hi from Namibia.

I have a few electrical gremlins in my '96 RR RL window only goes down, Rear window wiper does not work and few other small things..

After reading John page on the BECM I would really like to tackle this issue of Electronic gremlins with contact cleaner and see if it works then. I first have to wait for my RR to be returned to me after a new ABS and Modulator is being replaced, my question is:

If something is wrong and i have to take it to someone for repairs, what type person / business do i have to look for to repair ???

I am in Namibia so please keep in mind, 3rd World.

Chow rangenam

[sardolik]

Hello everybody!

I've got 95 Range Rover 4.0 SE. It had couple problems but I'd handled it except message "RH window not set". The thing is that nothing of electrical stuff on that door doesn't work at all or at least properly. Window doesn't work at all, door lock works only manually, if lock the door it looks all doors and it also unlocks all doors, but it doesn't work with remote; mirror doesn't work at all too. Dealer is saying that I need new BeCM for about $1700.

What's your advice?

Appreciate your answers!

[John W]

Hello everybody!

I've got 95 Range Rover 4.0 SE. It had couple problems but I'd handled it except message "RH window not set". The thing is that nothing of electrical stuff on that door doesn't work at all or at least properly. Window doesn't work at all, door lock works only manually, if lock the door it looks all doors and it also unlocks all doors, but it doesn't work with remote; mirror doesn't work at all too. Dealer is saying that I need new BeCM for about $1700.

What's your advice?

Appreciate your answers!

Doubtful you need a new BECM.Need to check the window/mirror switches .Mirror and window may have defective motors etc.
Key remote may be faulty,need new batteries or need to be resynced to your vehicle.
There is an anbundance of information on this site to help you with these issues.Have a good read.

[jchabol]

You are right, John. I have had some of the symptoms described and they are due to the FOB not working, etc.

However, I now have a problem with the BeCM and the car won't start. It all started with a carpet cleaning service, after that the iPack was behaving erratically and after opening the BeCM to inspect water was found in. Now the car won't crank. I have purchased an unlocked BeCM but I have no means of programming it where I am. (no dealers around for miles and miles). The question is that I've got a newer BecM than my original 97 MY. Are the BeCM boxes essentially the same inside or do they change? I read somewhere in the forums that most times the damage in the BeCM is in the power board and the logic board remains ok. If I swap power boards the problem may be fixed but at the same time if there are differences then I may damage the power board of the unlocked BeCM.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

[shupack]

"unlocked" means you can put it in and go, programming is nice, but not a necessity.